Slingbox Alternative/Replacement
Build your own! (DIY)
(updated 2/28/26)

There are TWO different ways to get your very own slingbox replacement!
 

• Method #1: The popular "Do-It-Yourself" setup (described below):

This method does require some technical knowledge, but it's far from rocket science, and once you set it up, it is very easy to use and I am confident you will be happy with the results.
 

• Method #2: The "Assisted" DIY setup (in the Green section at the bottom of this page):

  This method is a combination of the DIY method combined with my Personal One-On-One Service. With this method, you can get your Slingbox Replacement up and running without a lot of technical knowledge because I will be doing most of the heavy lifting for you. See the Green box near the bottom of this page for more details about my personal one-on-one service.

IMPORTANT:  If you run into any problems getting your slingbox replacement setup working, instead of giving up and returning the items to Amazon, why not let me help you get it up and running with my personal one-on-one service (see details at bottom of page)

Choose one of the following models:

2-Port 4K VIDEO (no WiFi): https://amzn.to/4dzy9Qt for $249 on Amazon.com

1-Port 4K VIDEO (no WiFi): https://amzn.to/3SGene8 for $229 on Amazon.com

2-Port 1080p HD video (no WiFi):  https://amzn.to/408JQYZ for $228 on Amazon.com

1-Port 1080p HD video w/WiFi: https://amzn.to/3WTPDBC for $209 on Amazon.com

1-Port 1080p HD video (no WiFi): https://amzn.to/3QcQuc7 for $198 on Amazon.com

Notes:

1. If your video source outputs 4K Video, you should get the 4K encoder above, unless you have an HDMI splitter and can down-size one of its outputs to 1080p so you can then connect that output to one of the 1080p encoders. If your video source only outputs 1080p HD, then you can save some money and get one of the 1080p encoders.
   
   Pro Tip: If you do get a 4K version of the encoder, it is HIGHLY recommended that you configure the "Encoder Size:" (stream output resolution) to 1920 x 1080 which is regular HD, and NOT 4K because generating and transmitting a 4K stream from inside your house out to the internet requires a VERY fast "Upload" connection from your internet service - and even if your home internet service is fast, trying to then view this 4K stream from a remote location will equally require a very fast connection on the viewing device (the device running VLC), and if both ends can't keep up, you will simply get a bunch of buffering and/or no signal at all. That is why you should limit the encoder output to a regular 1080 HD stream.

2. The unit(s) with 2-port allows you to connect the encoder in-series between your video source and your TV, thus reducing wires. With 1-port versions, you will probably need to use an HDMI splitter like this https://amzn.to/3gDh2SU ($15) so that you can have both the encoder and your TV connected to your video source.
   
   Update 8/11/22: A couple of users have informed me that the 2-port unit does not pass multi-channel audio (such as 5.1) to the local TV display connected to the "output" port of the encoder (the encoder only passes the left and right audio to the TV). So, if you want to preserve multi-channel audio from your video source to your TV display, you should use a splitter (such as this one https://amzn.to/3gDh2SU ($15). This way all the audio channels will be routed through the splitter to your TV display, and the encoder (which is connected to different output of the splitter) will still receive the audio and video as usual and encode it and output the stream(s). Also, if you already purchased the 2-port unit, there is no need to replace it with a one-port encoder - you can still use the 2-port with a splitter by connecting one of the outputs of the splitter to the "Input" of the 2-Port and just leave the "Output" port blank (nothing connected to it). Yes, adding a splitter introduces additional cables and another electronic device that may need to be rebooted on occasion (see below pro tip). However, if having 5.1 audio on your local TV is not important, then the 2-port encoder is recommended because it helps both increase reliability by being an all-in-one solution and reduces cabling.

Pro Tip: I personally have been running my Uray encoder for almost a year straight without having to reboot it once. But to play it safe, I have it connected to a smart plug so that if I am ever away and the encoder crashes for some reason, I can save the day and simply remotely power it off and back on to reboot it. I recommend Kasa smart devices because:

• The Kasa app is free, easy to use and supports scheduling and timers for its devices

• Kasa (tp-link) has the most assortment of smart devices I have seen; from small smart plugs, to smart outlet strips, cameras, full-color bulbs to all sorts of light switches including motion sensing and even a 3-Way Dimmer!

• Kasa devices work with Alexa and Google Assistant

• Kasa devices are inexpensive - $20 for a 2-pack of smart plugs (see below)

• NO MONTHLY CHARGE to control your switches and plugs!
  
  Smart Plugs (2-pack): https://amzn.to/3JNCCRS ($20)
  
  Kasa Amazon Store: https://amzn.to/3QpxKFe
   

Select one of the following (see below notes):

BroadLink IR RM4 Mini Blaster: https://amzn.to/3oAJwhj ($26 on Amazon.com)

BroadLink IR/RF RM4 Pro Blaster: https://amzn.to/3qXmhCq ($45 on Amazon.com)

SwitchBot Hub Mini Smart Remote: https://amzn.to/3BHc6Yr ($32 on Amazon.com)

MoesGo IR/RF Universal Remote Controller: https://amzn.to/3BKrSBC ($40 on Amazon.com)

MoesGo IR Universal Remote Controller: https://amzn.to/3YA3VZi  ($20 on Amazon.com)

Notes:

1. Most remotes use an IR signal to control your equipment. You can usually tell if your remote is IR if you need to aim it at your equipment for it to work. But some remotes use an RF signal, which works even from another room (doesn't need line-of-sight to work).

2. The capabilities of the above blasters vary a great deal, so if one doesn't work with your equipment, another one might work.

OVERVIEW VIDEO: This video shows a different and more complex system than mine (my slingbox alternative setup is much simpler than the one shown in the video), but this video will give you a good overall understanding on how the system works (NOTE: you can ignore most of this video that talks about setting up the encoder on the PC because the URay encoder will do all of that!): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WD4-5r9Glk

With my slingbox alternative setup, you don't need to use a separate Capture Device, Dedicated Computer powered-on 24/7, and a bunch of Software as mentioned in the above video because the Uray encoder does the work of ALL of them!

What's cool about the Uray encoder is that:

• It acts like a dedicated "streaming server" that converts the incoming HDMI signal into one or more streaming formats and sends the streaming video data out to your local or remote video player app (VLC or my app below) - and doing all this while running super cool (hardly generates any heat) and without requiring a bulky PC or a bunch of separate components to do it!

• It supports H.265 encoding, which can provide the same video quality of H.264, but using HALF the bitrate/bandwidth.

• It provides FOUR simultaneous video stream outputs. This will allow you to setup separate streams with each having a different bitrate/resolution so you can view the stream using various connection speeds. (each different output will have a URL suffix such as "/0" for the "Main stream" output, and "/1" for the first "substream1", etc.)

• There are no monthly fees to use it - you own it!

• It does not use or depend on any third-party service/company in order to work - so it won't suddenly stop working (like slingboxes recently did).

The 2-port versions of the HDMI encoder connects "in series" (no splitter needed) between your video source (Tivo/Sat/Cable box) and your HDMI TV. It converts the HDMI signal into a streaming format and sends it out from your home network to the internet.

The "wired" versions of the encoder connects to your house's network using a wired Ethernet connection. The encoder has a default IP address of 192.168.1.168 (port 80). The wifi versions work the same way, just using wifi instead of using a cable. To access the encoders' settings (it's "web portal"), simply open a browser while connected to your local network and navigate to the above default address. The default username is "admin" with "admin" also as the password. I highly recommend setting up a new STRONG password to the encoder's web portal (you can't change the username on the uray).

A lot of the encoder settings you can leave as is. However, I would make one change to the audio setting - change it from the default sample rate of 41000 to 48000. It will just give you clearer high-end "sibilance" (the "S" sound in words like "Special") with hardly any increase in stream bitrate.

Your home's internet connection is assigned a particular IP address on the internet. To find out your home's IP address, just go to https://www.whatismyip.com using any browser while connected to your home network. This IP address typically stays the same for broadband users, but can change, especially when you reboot your modem. Write down your home's IP address. For the example below, we will use "34.178.28.12". (see one of the pro-tips below on how to use a Dynamic DNS service so you can use a fixed domain name instead of an IP address)

5/19/22 UPDATE - Instead of using the RTSP or HLS format (as mentioned below), I am now recommending to use the TS format because it offers super low latency which will benefit greatly when remote controlling your video source (such as when using the Broadlink app or the remote Tivo app if you have a Tivo) by being able to see the response to your button presses within a second or two! (the TS url format is: http://yourstreamip:port/0.ts for the main stream)

In order for someone (i.e. you) on the internet to connect into the streaming output of the encoder, you need to setup a "port forwarding" rule in your home's router that will route the incoming stream request (from your streaming app running on your phone) to the encoder's IP address (and Port 80 for HLS/FLV/TS, or port 554 for RTSP) on your home network. So, for example, you could setup a port forwarding rule that would route any connection requests on port 10000 to internal network address of 192.168.1.168 (port 80/554). (this step is shown in the example video mentioned earlier in this page). For more help with port forwarding see these videos How to setup Port Forwarding. Note: for port forwarding to work, the encoder needs to have a fixed IP address (that the forwarded port rule will point to), so do NOT enable dhcp mode inside the encoder's network settings.

The encoder outputs four different streams and each stream has a stream type "url suffix". For example, the RSTP type url suffix for the main stream output is "/0". This way, when your video streaming app wants to connect to your video stream, it would use the internet address of rtsp://34.178.28.12:10000/0 (notice the "rtsp://" stream type prefix and then the ending url suffix of "/0" (with a colon separating your home's IP address and the port forwarding number 10000).

The encoder also supports the HLS protocol, which works great with VLC and with my app - see page bottom. However the HLS format does buffer the video for 8+ seconds, which is great to prevent buffer pauses with slower internet connections, but causes a huge delay when remote controlling your video source using the Broadlink app, my app or the Tivo app. The HLS protocol uses the URL format: http://34.178.28.12:10000/0.m3u8 (notice the normal "http://" url prefix and the HLS "/0.m3u8" suffix)

Pro Tip: To add security to your stream, you can add a password to the end of the stream URL (url suffix). So, for example, instead of using the RTSP default url suffix value of "/0", you could change it to something like "/045645656". This way a hacker will have no idea what the full url is even if they figure out the port number! (Note: Remember to reboot the encoder after making any changes to a stream URL)

Pro Tip: If you connect the Uray encoder to a smart power switch, then if you are ever away from your home and if the encoder starts to not operate correctly, you can remotely reboot it. (Note: I have been running my uray encoder for over 6 months without ever needing to reboot it)

Pro Tip: a UK user was experiencing an interlace issue with the URAY encoder and their cablebox, and they said setting their box to "1080p" and setting the "Deinterlaced" setting in the "Advanced" tab of the URay portal to "Bottom Only" worked for them.

Pro Tip: Most ISP's will block any incoming port 80 connections so that you can't setup your own "website server" on their network. So if you try to setup a port forwarding rule and use port 80 as the "input port", it will probably not work. That is why I suggest setting up the incoming port as 10000 and forward it to port 80 on the encoder (for all protocols except RTSP) because your ISP can not block you from using port 80 on your local network.

Pro Tip: You can use the web service https://canyouseeme.org to test if your port forwarding rule is correctly setup.

You can use the popular VLC app as shown in the above youtube video (or with my app that offers some cool unique features that vlc doesn't have - see page bottom). Many platforms (Windows/iOS/Android/Amazon Fire Stick, etc) have a version of the VLC player app in it's respective app store. Just select "Open Network Stream" from within the VLC app and type in the special video streaming URL for your home's encoder to view your stream. Have fun!

This is easily accomplished with a remote IR controller/blaster such as the BroadLink RM4 (https://amzn.to/3oAJwhj) or one of the other IR blasters mentioned at the top of this article.

You would first install the Broadlink app on your phone and configure it to your home video source's box make and model so it will know the correct IR codes to send to your box. You would then place the circular broadlink device in front of your Tivo/Cable/Sat box and then tap on the desired buttons in the Broadlink app, and it will tell the broadlink device to transmit the desired IR codes to your video source box to perform the various requested functions remotely.

Pro Tip: To obtain super-fast response to your IR remote commands (maybe even faster then Slingbox itself!), use the "TS" encoding format instead of HLS. Please note, because there is very little buffering used with the TS format, you will need a reliable internet connection to prevent skips.

Tivo iOS version: If your video source is a Tivo, a user did confirm that this iOS app offers the same ability to remote control your Tivo when used with a DDNS service: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/peanut-remote-for-tivo-dvr/id416909676.

Xfinity Tip: Your cable company might offer an app to control your cable box. A Xfinity user reported that they can use the app to control their tv box.

You will then end up with a slingbox alternative/replacement system that:

• The encoder will be waiting 24/7 for your streaming app to connect into it, then it will start streaming out whatever HDMI video signal you are inputting into the encoder, such as your Tivo/Cable/Sat box.

• You would then run a VLC player app (or my app - see page bottom) on your phone or on a TV device like a Firestick to view your stream on your phone or TV.

• You would then remote control your video source using the Broadlink app (or the Tivo app mentioned in the above tip). Keep in mind when using the IR Blaster, depending on the stream type you use, there can be a delay of around 10 seconds or more between the time when you press a button in the broadlink app to when you will "see" the response of the button action in the video stream - this is mostly due to stream buffering (NOTE: This delay can be reduced to 1-2 seconds if you use the TS streaming format recommended earlier).

There are some potential gotchas with this setup:

• When watching the stream on your phone or tablet, the viewing app (VLC or my app below) will be running on the same device as the Broadlink IR app, so you will need to switch back and forth between the two apps to manage your video source and then view the stream. However, with my app (see below), I plan to make this switching very fast and easy.

• The big reason why I wrote this article is because the cloud servers (that our slingbox needs in order to work) are being shut down soon. Likewise, the broadlink device (and just about any other internet connected device) also needs a cloud server to work. So, the remote-control part of this slingbox replacement setup could stop working if Broadlink ever goes out of business. Luckily, there are other companies that offer IR remote control products, so you can easily switch to another one if that happens.

• If your home's IP address ever changes, you will have to update the player's stream URL accordingly.

Pro Tip: You can use a Dynamic DNS service like NoIp.com (use promo code REFER20 for 20% off!) so that your stream will have a friendly url like "mystream.no-ip.org" (instead of an IP address) which will stay the same even if your home's IP address changes. Most routers have built-in support for dynamic DNS services.

Pro Tip: I have seen that many Netgear routers offer FREE DDNS accounts if you own one of their routers.

Any donation to help support my work on this project would be greatly appreciated  :-)

(or send to paypal email: paypal3-com@max-soft.com)